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Sour cherries: an ode to the tart, thirst-quenching goodness of summer

shared by MickyN | Leave a Comment

“You get sweet, you get a hint of bitter, you get caramel notes. It’s layer upon layer of thick, rich flavor, sophisticated yet pure. The moment you try sour cherry preserve, your mouth explodes with this complexity of summer tastes, and your foodie world changes for good forever. Having used sour cherries every summer since childhood, I have taken it upon myself to let everyone know how wonderfully versatile they are.”

The quote above is from my previous post highlighting our trip to a sour cherry orchard, and the preserve we made with the cherries we picked. I can’t believe this post is dated July 2017! It’s been too long since I last wrote about sour cherries. Time for an update, or so I think 🙂

Sweet cherries “are high in natural sugars. They’re usually pretty big and sturdy, with firm flesh. Bing, Rainier, and Lambert are all sweet cherries.” On the other hand, sour cherries “are the cherries you want to bake with. They have less sugar than sweet cherries, and that’s a good thing because their high acidity brings a bright, vivid flavor while their sugars will concentrate as you cook them (…) Montmorency, Morello, and Balaton are all sour cherry varieties. They’re usually soft, and smaller than sweet cherries” (Bon Appétit, July 23, 2021)
 

We used to do a lot of baking and canning with sour cherries when we lived in Europe. These fruits are delicate, and there is a small window of opportunity at the end of June – beginning of July when you can buy them and use them straight away, otherwise they spoil. You can find sour cherries at select Chicagoland grocery stores, such as Fresh Farms International Market and Rich’s Fresh Market. For those of you with a bit of time on your hands, I strongly suggest you pick them yourselves. It can be so much fun! 🙂

This is what we did earlier this month, when we spent one lovely Saturday morning collecting sour cherries at Fruit Acres Farm Market and U-Pick in Coloma, Michigan. Located approximately 1 1/2 hour drive away from Chicago, Fruit Acres is a family-owned farm with a history that goes back 200 years. According to the info published on their website, “The Friday family settled this 200 acre fruit farm, located in Coloma Michigan in 1846. The Friday’s were originally from Bavaria in Germany and named Freitag.  Randy and Annette (Friday) Bjorge are the 5th generation of Friday family farming the same farm. We met in college and Randy likes to say he married the farmer’s daughter. We took over the farm in 1991 after Annette’s father James Friday passed away suddenly.”

The Friday family grow black and Rainier sweet cherries, sour cherries, peaches, nectarines, plums, pears and apples.

They also sell their produce and a variety of local produce at their own market, situated about 1 mile away from the u-pick family fruit farm.

Local berries, sweet corn, cantaloupe, and more fruits & vegetables are arriving daily:

It had just stopped raining when we arrived at the orchard, and the weather was cloudy and gloomy. As soon as we got off the car, we entered a magical place, full of joy and wonderment for kids and adults alike 🙂

And here they were, the objects of our desire! Showcasing a ruby red transparent beauty and a fragile appearance, these sour cherries were something to behold:

The entire family started cherry picking. With many recipes in mind and little time to waste, I wanted to fill up the buckets with as much fruit as possible.

We got back home around lunchtime and a few hours later I started working on my first sour cherry dish: cherry cheesecake cookies.

Originally published in America’s Test Kitchen’s “Holiday Cookies” booklet (2010), the recipe is a keeper because these cookies are phenomenal. They may not look pretty in these pics (shaped by hand, oops!) but the flavors and textures are there, and they are sure to satisfy. The combination of cream cheese, butter, and cherries makes these cookies super soft, and their cherry flavor is glorious!
 
I like to leave out the graham cracker “coating” (personal preference), and I use fresh sour cherries for topping, with amazing results. Many cookie doughs can be frozen, which frees up time to do other things instead of spending the entire day in the kitchen. Less cooking/baking in one go = more summertime fun 🙂

A few days later, I made sour cherry jam and syrup…

…which I used in various ways, such as a topping for a sponge cake. Sooo good:

I also used the jam to make sour cherry ice cream, with added mulberries from the garden. I just fold the jam into vanilla ice cream, and the result is absolutely scrumptious. I add a few refreshing mulberries and sour cherries on top, and that’s it! A fabulous summer treat is born:

At the moment I have quite a few jars of sour cherry jam and bottle of syrup stored in the pantry. I also like to use other preservation methods for pitted sour cherries, such as dehydrating and freezing. While they do become rather “watery,” previously frozen sour cherries are still amazing in baking, imo. Nothing like taking a bag of sour cherries out of the freezer in the middle of winter, to use in sponge cakes or bread puddings 🙂

Speaking of pitted cherries, if you don’t have a cherry pitter, or yours has stopped working (as it happened to me in the past) you may want to attempt my favorite method, originally used by my mom and my aunt many years ago, which involves safety pins.  Insert the end of a safety pin into the cherry, and gently push it through and wiggle it down and around the pit until the pit pops out. Another method, which in my experience is particularly successful with sour cherries, is to simply squeeze the pit out of the cherry by applying pressure until the pit pops out. Please keep in mind that you might lose some of the cherry juice, and your cherries may turn out a little squished if you apply this technique. Using chopsticks, paper clips, metal straws or skewers are other methods I have found mentioned online. These and others are discussed in the Bon Appétit article “How to Pit Cherries even if You Don’t Have a Pitter.”
 
Cherries and some berries might be gone for now, but plenty more deliciousness awaits. First peaches grown in the Friday family fruit farm/orchard will be ripe for picking the first week of August, followed by apples.
 
Are you a fan of sour cherries? How do you use them in cooking/baking? I would love to learn from you 🙂
 

Disclaimer: I was not financially compensated by Fruit Acres Farm Market and U-Pick for this post. All opinions expressed here are my own.

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I have a passion for writing and an appetite for cooking. I love to tell stories about foods, cultures, and people - and I love to eat! Come join me on this delicious foodie adventure! Read More

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